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The view back to Frigiliana |
A
cottage, a castle and two donkeys
Tony Allen revisits
Cortijo de la Lastra
buttakes a shorter, more interesting route...
We’ve
visited the Cortijo de la Lastra before, on a walk I described a
couple of years ago.
This time, however,
it’s the destination for a shorter, but I think more interesting
circular route, which takes in a glorious variety of scenery and
returns via the Castillo de Lizar above Frigiliana. |
We start, and
finish, in the Plaza del Ingenio opposite the Guardia Civil post in
Frigiliana. From here, take the road which runs down past the bus stop and
ice cream stall to the new bypass skirting below the town, and turn right
along the bypass following the signs towards Torrox. It’s a pleasant
stroll along the balustraded, palm shaded esplanade; the frenzy of
building to the right seems at last to be dying down, while to the left
there are panoramic views across the rich fertile valley below the
village, and on towards the coast.
At the far
end, after just over a kilometre, we head straight on at the road junction
on the outskirts of the village and carry on for a couple of hundred
metres along the Torrox road, passing the bar Santo Cristo, and the Ermita
from which it takes its name perched on the hillside above it.
At the first
bend beyond the village, where the road bends sharply to the right
(1.11km) we head straight on along a well-defined footpath, marked by blue
paint spots, which leads under a large carob tree and past a ruined house.
In spring, this rocky slope is a delight of wild flowers; cistus, broom,
rosemary, esparto and century plants are scattered across the hillside
with a host of bright coloured smaller flowers crowding beneath them.
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After 50m or
so the path scrambles up a steep bank to rejoin the main road. Here we
turn left for 30 or 40m and then right again following the paint splashes
up a low rock face onto another footpath which then climbs steeply up the
hill ahead alongside a small pine clad gully. After 80m we fork right to
wind across the slope above a large plastic greenhouse. At the far end of
this invierno plastico, cresting a small spur, the path swings right again
to zigzag steeply up the nose of the spur (1.33km).
The path now
threads its way through a maze of goat tracks and isn’t always easy to
follow, but the paint splashes are a reliable guide; if you go more than 5
or 10 metres without spotting one, cast around until you do.
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Picnic spot
under the pines |
We now climb
steeply up the spur, shaded in places by scattered pines. In the hot sun,
the mingling fragrances of pine, rosemary, lavender, thyme, and in one
place a large patch of pungent, curry scented helichrysum make it easy to
imagine ourselves wandering through an arab suq. The path climbs about
150m before levelling out on the shoulder of the spur, from where we get
splendid views across Frigiliana to Cruz de Pinto and Nerja beyond.
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Cortijo de la Lastra |
Soon the
path joins a graded track and the Cortijo de la Lastra comes into view
ahead.
To explore
the cortijo, turn left on the track and fork right at the first
junction, which leads through an olive grove to the abandoned cottage,
flanked by two caleras. Beside it, a small cluster of pine trees
offers a shady picnic spot with views across the mountainside towards
el Fuerte (1.87km).
The old
cortijo is quite well preserved and the caleras have been recently
used but I’ve never been able to discover when the building itself was
abandoned, anything of its history, or how it got its name. I should
be very interested to hear what any Soltalk reader may know of it. |
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Retracing our steps to the
point where the footpath joins the main track, we now continue to
follow this track gently downhill through the olive groves which are
carpeted with a wonderful variety of wild flowers, including several
large clumps of Spanish snapdragons, and alive with butterflies
dancing and feeding beside the track.
After a couple of hundred metres, a
sign beside the track warns us of beehives ahead - a warning I’ve
learned from painful experience not to ignore! Shortly afterwards,
about 50m short of the hives, the track ends, leaving just a footpath
which leads on towards the hives. A smaller footpath, which we now
follow, drops down to the right of the track offering a safe and
convenient bypass below the bees’ flight line (2.4km).
It’s bit
of a scramble but it’s best not to linger, and once we’re across the
small valley the path swings right, away from the hives, and slants
gently down through the pine trees on the far slope.
Rounding
the tip of the spur, we swing back to cross another small valley where
the footpath forks. The path here is a bit indistinct but we follow
the right-hand lower fork which involves scrambling under a low tree.
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Snapdragon |
Again we swing
to the right as we climb up through the trees on the far side of the
valley to come out on the tip of the next spur, from where we look down on
the Frigiliana road and the Ermita de Santo Cristo (2.69km).
Our path now
crosses another, larger valley. At one point this involves a rather
awkward scramble down a shoulder high rock face but with this behind us
the path improves as we climb up the far side hand. Scrambling up another
rock we emerge from the valley to find ourselves on another spectacular
vantage point overlooking Frigiliana (2.9km).
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Lizar |
Five
hundred metres ahead we can now see the flat topped hill of the
Castillo de Lizar, for which we are heading, while immediately in
front of us the path leads across a grassy, flower strewn hillside to
a large ruined building. Picking our way through these ruins we next
skirt along the left-hand side of an avocado orchard until we come to
a piped acequia.
This leads
us to a cluster of buildings beside the Lazar reservoir. Immediately
before the buildings a narrow footpath leads off to the right and
following this brings us out onto a track which runs alongside the
reservoir wall (3.25km).
Halfway
along this wall, another footpath drops steeply down to the right,
offering a short cut back down into Frigiliana.
However,
we follow the main track for another hundred metres or so and then
take the footpath which slants up the hill to the left, to explore the
Castillo.
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There are no
obvious remains of the castle, but it’s a wonderful site with superb views
both down to the coast and back into the stunningly beautiful mountains of
the Sierra de Almijara.
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It’s also
a splendid site for butterfly spotting.
For
some reason they always seem to congregate in large numbers on
hilltops like this and we usually spot several striking species like
swallowtails, festoons and pashas as well as many less spectacular
ones. |
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Swallowtail
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Southern Festoon |
Two tailed Pasha |
You’ll probably also meet two particularly friendly donkeys who graze the
hilltop and are always game for a picnic.
To complete
the circuit we can either drop back down the way we came to take the
footpath opposite the alberca which I mentioned earlier, or carry on along
the footpath which brought us up to the Castillo. This zigzags steeply
down the rocky slope on the far side of the hill before winding through a
delightful area of landscaped gardens to emerge beside the Garden Bar in
Frigiliana.
Whichever
route you choose back through Frigiliana to the start point, there’s no
shortage of places to choose to pick up a refreshing beer after your
exertions. And back at the start, if you can nurse your thirst long enough
as I like to, you’re handily placed for the Bar Virtudes.
Walk Data:
Distance - 3.3km. Time
1.5hrs. Difficulty - moderate, with two or three
scrambles.
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