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La
Cuesta del Sordo |
Splashing through
the Sierras
Another walk with
Tony Allen
Often
in the past we’ve walked a whole day and seen no-one else on the
Sierra, but this spring there are definitely more walkers about.
Although I love the solitude of the mountains, it’s good to see more
people enjoying them - perhaps we’ll even get our editor up there one
day!
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This month’s walk covers one of our more demanding routes, with a couple
of stiff ascents followed by a three kilometre wade down a slippery river
course. Nevertheless, for the fit and sure footed, it’s a wonderful trek
through spectacular scenery and we met a surprising number of other
walkers, including several couples and one large group of about 20 people
listening so intently to their guide’s nature lecture that one felt they
may have been expecting an examination at the end.
Our walk starts at the Plaza del Ingenio in Frigiliana, and it’s best to
take the bus up there, as we’ll end up by the bus station back in Nerja.
As so often before, we set off down the concrete road marked “Ruta
Turistica” which leaves the Plaza between the Bar Virtudes and the Guardia
Civil post and then drops steeply into the Higueron gorge.
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On the way down to the river we pass two possible short cuts: one a
steep, narrow and rather slippery footpath passing to the left of the
house on the first right hand bend and the other a good but narrow
path running along the acequia which we cross about half way down into
the valley. Both of these join the river course a couple of hundred
metres up stream but today we follow the main track down to the
bottom, cross the riverbed, and turn left on the far bank to head
upstream (0.6km).
However often we come
this way, the Higueron valley is an unfailing source of delight. In
spring, the verges of the track down into the gorge are bright with
annual wildflowers. The valley bottom is a jumble of rosemary and
myrtle, broom and gorse, with occasional stands of pine and
eucalyptus.
Everywhere there are
oleanders - tumbling down the hillside in cascades of pink. The river
itself is constantly changing: sometimes empty, dry and dusty in
drought or in times of peak irrigation, sometimes murmuring gently
down its rocky course - but sometimes an irresistible flood, as the
huge boulders and uprooted trees strewn around the bed bear witness.
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The Higueron Valley |
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Green Hairstreak
butterfly |
We follow its course
northwards for about 800m until we reach a large alberca or reservoir
beside a eucalyptus grove. Almost immediately beyond this is a
signboard and map showing the path to el Fuente del Esparto, once a
mule track, which climbs up to the right of the track (1.42km).
It’s now a stiff ascent to the ridge above, the path clawing its way
back and forth between rocks and the scattered pines which cling
tenaciously to the slope, the clean sharp scent of pine and rosemary
pungent in the air, and splendid views up into the mountains or back
down to Frigiliana opening up at each twist and turn.
At the crest we pass beneath an arch of pines to emerge onto an open
ridge with a magnificent panorama of mountains stretching away in
front of us to el Cielo on the far horizon. A wooden post marks a fork
in the path where we turn left (2.02km). |
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From here our path snakes
along the ridge line for about 300 metres until we reach another fork,
again marked by a wooden post. Turning right, we follow a well defined
footpath which we can see clearly looping in and out of a series of
side valleys and small spurs ahead of us until it disappears over a
final saddle to drop down into the Chillar valley about 2 kilometres
ahead.
We’re now cutting across a long bend in the Chillar; the upper valley,
where we’re heading, lies straight ahead, but the lower reaches, which
we’ll eventually follow back into Nerja, sweep round to the right
below us. Between them, and out of sight at present, is the
spectacular gorge which is the climax of our walk.
It’s several years since I
last walked this way, and I’m struck by how much better the signing
is, and also by how |
Sombre Bee orchid |
much more the path appears to have been used. This makes for easy walking
until the last stiff climb up to the ridge above the Chillar, with the
craggy summit of Tajo Castillejo towering above us to the left. Cresting
the ridge (4.52km) we look down into the upper reaches of the Chillar,
with the path to la Fuente del Esparto and the caves at Maro winding up
the far slope.
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Helianthum Appenium |
We pick our way
carefully down the steep and in places rather treacherous path into
the valley, stopping occasionally to enjoy the sights and scents of
this glorious rocky hillside, where cistus, rosemary, helianthemum,
thyme, broom and sage mingle beneath the scattered pines, and
butterflies dance and bask in the warm sun. Just above the river we
join another path running along the near bank (5.20km).
Exploring to the left
would lead us to the ruined Cortijo of La Presa but today we’ll follow
the arrows and paint splashes to the right along the river bank for a
couple of hundred metres until the path crosses the stream and slants
up the far slope towards the Collado de los Apretaderos and la Fuente
del Esparto. Immediately beyond the stream, however, we leave the main
path and follow a lesser path to the right along the far bank. |
This soon drops down into the river course and for much of the next 4
kilometres we’ll be paddling. The going in places is quite difficult,
you’ll definitely need a stick and good footwear and it’s a route I’d only
recommend for the nimble and sure footed. It would also be very dangerous
to be caught here by a flash flood - on an earlier occasion I found the
body of two ibex caught this way - so avoid it if there’s rain threatened.
| For the first
kilometre or so the valley is fairly open, with the water rippling
gently along a bed of pebbles and small rocks, broken in two or three
places by rapids where it rushes down a tumble of huge rocks. However,
there’s no need to risk the rapids themselves; by casting around at
each such point we find an easier path to one side or the other,
normally marked by blue paint splashes.
Winding our tortuous way
down stream in the dappled shade of open pinewoods, we come to a more
open stretch where a large side valley joins the main valley from the
north (7.2km). Soon after this we enter the gorge proper, and find
ourselves winding between sheer rock walls 15 or 20 metres high and no
more than five metres apart.
On three or four
occasions they open out, only to narrow in even more tightly,
sometimes so close together that we can easily touch both walls at
once.
We’ve now no option but to wade, as the river covers the full width of
the gorge. In dry weather it’s little more than shin deep, but it’s
easy to see, high on the walls above our heads, the marks of its
rushing passage in |
Waterfall below the
gorge |
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A toad dives for cover |
flood. In
one place a large tree, its root ball four or five metres across, has
been swept downstream and lodged firmly between the walls, so that we
have to squeeze past its roots.
Here, where the sun barely
reaches, there’s a fascinating microhabitat of plant and animal life.
Adiantum grows thickly from crevices in the rock, huge toads dive away
beneath our feet, and the pools are black with clouds of tadpoles.
Eventually we emerge
from this stunning cleft through the mountains, the valley opens out
once more and we come to the Chillar Electrical Power Station (9.7km). |
| From here it’s easy
walking, following the left bank of the Chillar past the quarry
beneath Cerro del Pinto, past the junction with the Rio Higueron, and
on down to Nerja.
There are several
possible routes up into the town, but we found the most convenient the
path which climbs up beside the old ruined honey factory to bring us
out by the bus station in Calle de Pescia where we originally set out
for Frigiliana.
Needless to say it also
comes out beside several inviting bars.
WALK DATA:
Distance:13.75 km.
Time: 4-5 hrs.
Difficulty: Moderate/difficult.
Unsafe in rain or flood conditions. |
Descent to the Chillar |
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Previous walks
by Tony Allen
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September 2006 |
October 2006 |
November 2006 |
December 2006 |
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January 2007 |
February 2007 |
March 2007 |
April 2007 |
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May 2007 |
June 2007 |
July 2007 |
August 2007 |
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September 2007 |
October 2007 |
December 2007 |
January 2008 |
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February 2008 |
March 2008 |
April
2008 |
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